The Fiorucci era through the words of Franco Marabelli

By MANUELA ANNAMARIA ACCINNO February 24, 2025

Elio Fiorucci is not just a name, but a symbol of innovation and creativity that marked a golden era for fashion and design in Milan and beyond. His audacious vision and ingenious approach to fashion were based on a deep connection with art and design, emblematically represented by his collaboration with Franco Marabelli, a gifted designer. In the 1970s, Fiorucci commissioned Marabelli to redesign his first shop in San Babila, a place that quickly became a reference point for young people and fashion enthusiasts. The boutique is not just a shop; it is a sensory experience that invites customers to immerse themselves in a world of color, creativity and innovation. This first project was followed by other iconic openings, such as those in Via Torino, New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Miami, Zurich and Rio de Janeiro, which expanded Fiorucci's influence internationally. After his experience with Fiorucci, Marabelli continued his career working with elite furniture companies such as B&B Italia, Molteni and Knoll International. His expertise extends beyond fashion, curating sets for fashion shows, presentations and various events, helping to define the visual identity of some of the world's most prestigious brands. Today, curator of the Fiorucci Historical Archive, Marabelli plays a fundamental role in preserving and enhancing the legacy of a brand that has revolutionized the concept of fashion. The archive tells the stories, expeiences and innovations that made Fiorucci a pioneer, making it an integral part of Milanese and international fashion history.

Could you tell us how the meeting between you and Elio Fiorucci came about? And above all, how did you manage to bring your ideas and personalities together?

In 1970 I received a phone call that changed the course of my career and my life. It was Elio Fiorucci, who wanted to meet me and offer me a job. Our meeting was extraordinary: immediately a vibration of free and authentic expression was established between us. We talked for a long time, sharing ideas and visions. Eventually, he proposed that I design the Jeans department in his shop in San Babila, and I accepted enthusiastically. Thus began an extraordinary friendship with Elio, which turned out to be much more than just a professional collaboration. It was a shared journey, a continuous exchange of inspirations and a search for new horizons.

“Brigitte Bardot sweatshirt for sale in Fiorucci shops.” 

(Courtesy Franco Marabelli Studio & Research Elio Fiorucci Archive) 

Can you describe the creative process you followed for the design of the San Babila shop? What were the main challenges and objectives?

Elio gave me total creative freedom, which allowed me to experiment without limits. There was no need for explanations; a quick exchange of ideas with him was enough to define what we wanted, and quickly the realization took place. For the shop in San Babila, I decided to create a clothing area that would dialogue perfectly with the set design, a dynamic and constantly changing environment. It was like a stage set, where every element - from the lighting, to the furniture, to the music and scent that no shop in Milan had - was designed to be mobile and part of an immersive experience.  

The knitwear department, for example, had a piece of furniture that recreated the skyline of skyscrapers, with neon lights outlining the profiles. This, in contrast to the bourgeois Milan of those years, which still reflected a certain conformism, I wanted to give life to spaces that broke with that static nature. The shoe department, which resembled a garden, and a costume jewelry area made of glass blocks were direct reminders of the new trends and energy of the counterculture, reflecting a radical and innovative vision. The shop thus became a landmark, a place where all generations and social backgrounds met in a completely new way, from the postman to Brigitte Bardot.

“New York shop window with Paolo Buggiani’s Wereable Art suits. Display director Mark Sawyer, 1978.”

(Courtesy Franco Marabelli Studio & Research Elio Fiorucci Archive) 

How do you think Elio Fiorucci's legacy continues to influence the contemporary fashion and design scene?  

Elio sensed that fashion was never just an act of clothing, but a practice of profound expression, an artistic transposition crossing disciplines, emotions and times. His strength lay in creative freedom, in experimentation, in breaking conventions with courage, even at the cost of making mistakes. That ‘making mistakes’ was the very beauty of the process: daring without fear of being judged, because every mistake was part of a language that even today might seem revolutionary, he was not subjected to the domination of money. Today, however, we are witnessing a disturbing homologation. Individuality seems to have been replaced by the security of conformity. People appear uniformly dressed, lacking the will to expose themselves as ‘different’. There is no longer any room for creative daring.

“Graphic office poster – model Lory Del Santo wears Lycra jumpsuit. Photo by Attilio Conciari.” 

(Courtesy Franco Marabelli Studio & Research Elio Fiorucci Archive)